News Summary

• There's a certain kind of restaurant in New York that exists in two parallel realities at once.
• In one, it is transcendent: the food is precise, thoughtful, maybe even transportive.
• In the other, it's unbearable: impossible reservations, tightly packed tables, a dining room full of people more focused on documenting the meal than actually tasting it.
• In a city overflowing with options, a small handful of places still manage to dominate the conversation.
• How did they get there?
• I went to the source.